Dan Johnson - UK Commercial Photographer

SOLO III FRENCH RIVIERA

Dan Johnson 7 June 2024

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With rolling countryside and stunning seaside vistas, this scenic rail journey reveals the rural and coastal charm of southern France

Southern France, with its enchanting landscapes and Mediterranean allure, beckons travellers to embark on a journey that promises more than just a destination. The train journey from Carcassonne to Nice via Marseille is a picturesque odyssey that unfurls the rural and coastal charm of this captivating region, offering a seamless blend of medieval history, pastoral beauty, and azure seascapes.

Our journey begins in Carcassonne, a city where history stands still. The train station, an unassuming gateway, leads us to the fortified old town, La Cité, whose medieval ramparts and towers cast long shadows over the cobblestone streets. As the train glides out of the station, the imposing walls of Carcassonne slowly recede, replaced by the verdant expanses of the Aude department. Vineyards stretch out like a green quilt, interspersed with sunflower fields that nod to the rhythm of the train.

Leaving Carcassonne, the landscape transitions into the rolling countryside, where time seems to move at a slower, more deliberate pace. The train winds through the Corbières Massif, where undulating hills covered in garrigue scrubland are punctuated by solitary farmhouses. Here, the scent of wild thyme and rosemary wafts through the air, and the occasional herd of sheep reminds us of the region’s pastoral heritage.

As we approach the outskirts of Montpellier, the scenery evolves again. The vineyards give way to olive groves, their silvery leaves shimmering under the Mediterranean sun. The train curves along the edge of the Étang de Thau, a vast saltwater lagoon famous for its oyster beds. This is Languedoc-Roussillon in all its bucolic splendour, a tableau of agricultural richness that has sustained local traditions for centuries.

The train’s arrival in Marseille marks the journey’s midpoint and a dramatic change in scenery. The bustling port city, with its eclectic mix of cultures, offers a vibrant contrast to the tranquil countryside. Marseille’s Vieux-Port, with its forest of masts and the iconic Notre Dame de la Garde basilica perched high above, is a feast for the eyes. The narrow streets of Le Panier, the city’s oldest quarter, invite exploration, and the aroma of bouillabaisse from waterfront bistros tempts the palate.

Marseille is a city that thrives on its maritime heritage, and a brief sojourn around the station concourse reveals a mosaic of historical influences, from the ancient Greeks to modern cosmopolitanism. Yet, as the train departs from Marseille Saint-Charles station, the urban clamour fades, giving way once more to the tranquil embrace of the Mediterranean coast.

Heading east, the train traces the Côte d'Azur, a route that showcases the region’s legendary coastal beauty. The tracks cling to the cliffs, offering panoramic views of the shimmering sea. As the train winds through resort towns like Toulon and Cannes, the azure waters are ever-present, a constant companion that glitters under the southern sun.

This stretch of the journey is a visual symphony of blues and greens. The lush vegetation of the Esterel Massif, with its red rock formations, contrasts sharply with the cerulean sea. The coastline is dotted with secluded coves and sandy beaches, each more inviting than the last. It’s easy to see why this region has inspired countless artists and writers over the centuries.

The final destination, Nice, unfolds like a grand finale. As the train pulls into Nice-Ville station, the Promenade des Anglais beckons with its palm-lined elegance. The city’s Belle Époque architecture, coupled with the vibrant markets of Cours Saleya, encapsulates the quintessence of Riviera charm.

Nice offers a perfect conclusion to this journey through the varied landscapes of southern France. Starting with the medieval mystique of Carcassonne, passing through the vibrant energy of Marseille, and ending with the glamour of Nice, this train ride showcases the region’s timeless appeal. Each leg of the trip invites travellers to take a breath, relish the shifting scenery, and soak in the distinctive charm that makes the French coast so enchanting.

SOLO Issue 3 is now available as an online edition.

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